My Journey to Nzulezu “the Village On Water”

 I have been working in Cape Coast during the week, lecturing on the Masters in Microfinance programme hosted by the University of Cape Coast. The weekend following my week of work had to be something away from work especially after continuous hours of teaching. I needed to give myself a weekend that would prepare me for the week ahead. 

The best option for a good weekend was the decision to embark on a trip to the ever talked about Nzulezu; the village built on water. I have visited various places of interest in and around Central Region, I however was looking out for a new experience and this guided my choice to visit Nzulezu in the Jomoro District of the Western Region of Ghana.  

To be sure of the route- since I could not lay my hands on any local material for directions to Nzulezu-, I had to take directions from Google Map. This was an excellent experience. The GPS was very accurate first giving me the directions and estimated time needed to reach the final destination. From the starting point; Sasakawa Guest House it was to take about 2 hours 45 minutes. 

The journey started a little after 8 am. The drive to Takoradi was smooth and enjoyable. The   roads from Cape Coast to Takoradi had its fair share of potholes, however, there was much indication that efforts were in place to construct the roads that served as bypass to the main road leading to Tarkwa -Axim road. The remarkable thing I observed about the road network to Nzulezu was   that they were very motorable; providing a sense of comfort for road users. The roads connecting the Ellembelle District to the Jomoro District had seen massive facelifts. Bridges were being constructed over rivers to replace old and narrow bridges, new roads were under constructions and old ones were being rehabilitated.   I was very impressed first about the road networks. This was because I was expecting to drive on very bad roads as typical of most of the tourist places I had visited. Most roads leading to the very places of interest in Ghana are   bad and bumpy. That expectation did not come to pass as I made the trip to Nzulezu.  

I was happy observing the tangible development outputs seen as I journeyed on. What I was most pleased about was that these things had some bearings on contributing to the overall development of the nation specifically for the people leaving in the communities.  The landscaping and the beauty of the vegetation dotted along the road to Nzulezu was a sight to behold. The rubber and palm plantations adds up to the beauty of the landscape not to talk about the long stretch of the tar winding road network. 

My sadness was fueled by what had happened to our river bodies. It was very obvious that illegal mining activities had gradually destroyed our water bodies. The Ankobra River for instance had turned totally brown. It appeared more like a milo drink taking away the beauty of the river. Clearly even without a background ecology, there was everything wrong with the way majority of the rivers appeared.  Something must be done   to reverse this trend. 

Apart from the road networks, I came across the very talked about Atuabo Gas plant and Anokye Gas plants. From observatory perspectives, these plants where operating in full swing.  My interest in the Atuabo Gas was because of the national energy crisis. The many reasons that have been ascribed as the course of the “dumsor” was the challenges associated with the completion of the Atuabo Gas. I would have loved to stop over and actually understand the dynamics surrounding the Atuabo Gas. I knew it was not going to be possible for me since I was not a political figure. I can only stand afar and make my own notes. Even photography was not permitted.  

The Journey to Nzulezu was on and unabated. The Google Map estimated the final destination time from Atuabo to   Nzulezu at about 40 minutes. Checking from the Google Map, I had reached Nzulezu. I was not very sure about the Google Map this time. There was nothing, not even a common sign post that gave the indication that truly one had reached the town from which you can cross the river to the village. I doubted the judgment of the Google Map and drove past to the next town.  May be it was to be, since driving past got me to notice a beautiful resort; Karela Hotel & Resort that finally became the perfect place for lunch after the visit to Nzulezu Village. 

I drove some few minutes further heading to Half Assini. I pulled up the brakes to ask for directions from two gentlemen who were walking by the side of the road.  These men confirmed what the Google Map had confirmed already. Anyway, I enjoyed a typical Ghanaian directional moment from the men who were trying to direct me to the exact building where I was to receive the needed assistance. I had to cut in and let the gentlemen at least know that I had gotten the direction since it was becoming a long lecture with signs and gestures.

I turned to head back to locate the green building as described by the gentlemen. It was about 3 minutes drive back. Finally, the green painted building was in sight. The office from where the journey was to begin was just a turn away from the green building and located geographically behind it. For now that building is the only landmark for locating the Nzulezu office or tourism centre (I seriously don’t know what to call it).

From the office there was a sight of the sea to the south and a make shift restaurant. There were a number of people mostly men numbering about 8 who I later found out were the tour guides. Two mini vans were also parked there with about 17 passengers who were also on the same trip. I spoke to one of the gentlemen around and told him my mission there. I was directed to the main office within the center’s building to a lady sitting behind a table just at the entrance. She explained to me what I needed to do to be able to embark on the trip to the village on water. A man who looks like the supervisor after paying the fees introduced me to a young man by name Nathaniel. Nathaniel was going to take me and other visitors on the journey by river to the Village. He was a tour guide and the captain of the boat. Nathaniel in a pleasant voice welcomed me with a smile and extended his hand for a handshake. He informed me that three other people were to join me in the boat for our ride to the village. I did not hesitate. I was just looking forward to experiencing the final and most important part of the day’s journey. 

I asked the guide to use the washroom before the start of our journey. I don’t think it was because I was scared of the water trip. It was a pure natural exercise. My impression about the washroom facility in the place at the office that could receive over 600 guests on a holiday and weekend was in bad taste. The place was not well kept. Something must be done about this.  

The guide walked the four of us across the street where there was a wooden pathway nicely constructed. This was almost about 30 meters stretch of a wooden pathway that took visitors to the bank of the river Amanzule (meaning people’s river).  Actually we were told that the portion was a carnal constructed and not a natural course of the river. This according to the guide was done to ease the transportation of people during the raining season. He further told us that, during the dry season the carnal dries up and therefore visitors had to drive down to the very banks of the Amanzule River to embark on the boat journey to Nzulezu. 

Our guide handed over to us nicely kept life jackets as he told us that our journey on the river to the village was going to last for 45 minutes in and 45 minutes out. One by one we embarked onto an averagely tiny boat to begin our journey. The journey on the river was fun, experiential but very scary. The boat ride will scare most people. The 45 minutes enjoyable ride started feeling painful after about 15 minutes of cruising time. The seat like structure was not too comfortable. There was not much room for anyone to stretch the legs. 

The condition experienced in the canoe took away the pleasure of the trip as one starts feeling the pressure of the wooden seats pressing against the body.  The lack of adequate information advising people to dress appropriately in order to shield oneself from the scotching sun did not help matters. For instance on the day of the trip the sun was scotching and to enjoy the cruise one will need a hat or sun shades to reduce the severity of the sun rays.

After about 40 minutes on the canoe, the village was in sight. The canoe docked in front of one of the major “highways” within the village. One by one, we were assisted to disembark. Our guide informed us that the major road that divided the village into two longitudinally was known as the highway. Life on the Nzulezu River was normal although the people there did not have a health post.  There were provision shops (Nzulezu “Melcome”), drinking bar, access to electricity and pipe borne water, school, churches and a motel. We were guided through the City On Water and finally was introduced to one of the sons of the Nzulezu Chief. The Prince spoke to us about the various challenges confronting their village. He lamented on the need for professional teachers to assist in the teaching of their children and a possible health post for the community. 

All said and done, from observations and discussions, it was very obvious that the village which is serving as a tourist site needed to be preserved. It was clear that the areas serving as land for their building were being polluted with household waste which calls for appropriate action. The chief’s palace as at the time of visit was raised down and efforts were being put in place to rebuild it. Truth remains, there is not much to see and experience when you get to the Nzulezu village. Apart from the beautiful long cruise on the river the village really does not seem to have much for tourist except for the way of life of the people with poverty as their hallmark. 

At the end of my trip the question that kept coming to my mind was “what is the Ministry of Tourism doing to make Nzulezu worth visiting ten more times”?